A love affair with Albania

15th June – 10th July

There are many things to get used to in Albania. For starters, if you nod your head and say ‘jo’ (pronouced ‘yo’) you are saying no, if you shake you head and say ‘po’ you are responding in the affirmative. Have a go, it is harder than you think to respond how you intend.

Despite the odd few challenges, here is why Albania convinced me to stay for almost a month: the food is fresh, cheap and delicious; there are regular fountains along most of the roads brimming with fresh ice-cold water from the mountains; the Classical archaeological sites, Byzantine churches, Ottoman fortresses and world war memorabilia is, in most places, yet to be ‘red tapped’ allowing you to explore in a way that few other countries allow; the lakes and rivers are picturesque and great for swimming; the country has a Mediterranean coastline with some glorious beaches; and last but not least the people are splendid: kind, open-minded, with a generally high level of English and accompanied by some fantastic dry humour.

Route around Albania
Route around Albania
Travelling around Tirana with Solène and Alex
Travelling around Albania’s capital, Tirana, with my new found couple friends, Solène and Alex
Skanderbeg, the national hero of Albania
Skanderbeg, the national hero of Albania. I like that their national hero is both universally loved and from the 15th century. It seems difficult to get personal or controversial about a historic figure from 800 years ago. Facts have been blurred in memories and interpretations and he can be used as a unifying national hero without being religiously or politically divisive.
National History Museum of Albania
National History Museum, Tirana. An extensive collection which is half translated into English. The other half of the collection gives you ripe opportunity for making up some history (e.g. I think this gilded sword was used for slicing over-sized melons, which were no doubt plentiful in 12th century Albanian farming)
Wild camping in the bushes
Wild camping in the endless hills.
My first puncture on the trip!
My first puncture on the trip!
Two Swiss cyclists heading overland to Japan
Joining up with two Swiss-French brothers heading overland to Japan on recumbent bicycles
Only in Albania can you end up wearing a Bronze Age bracelet in a museum
Only in Albania can you end up sitting on the floor of a museum with two archaeology specialists wearing a Bronze Age ring and bracelet
My excellent cycling Air BnB hosts in Korcë
My excellent Air BnB hosts in Korcë
Overlooking the River Viosa
Overlooking the River Viosa
Berat, the 'town of a thousand windows". I did not count the windows to verify this fact.
Berat, the ‘town of a thousand windows”. (I did not count the windows to verify this guidebook fact.)
Enormous hail in Berat
Enormous hail in Berat
Tomasz, Nicholas, Tycho and me, after spending a few days camping on a roof together
Tomasz, Nicolas, Tycho and me, after spending a few days camping on a roof together
Cycling with Nicolas from Montreal
Cycling with Nicolas from Montreal
'Blue Eye', a 10 degree spring-water fed river. Great swimming.
‘Blue Eye’, a 10 degree spring-water fed river in the south of Albania. Great swimming.
Ottoman house in Gjirokaster, south Albania
Ottoman house in Gjirokaster, south Albania
View from the castle over Gjirokaster, my last town in Albania before heading over the border to Greece
View from the castle over Gjirokaster, my last town in Albania before heading over the border to Greece
Comments

One thought on “A love affair with Albania

  • ADAM YAMEY 24th August 2016 at 8:59 am Reply

    Your sister Helen has just told me about your fascinating site. I was in Albania in 1984, and then again in May/June 2016. I am writing a book about our trip to Albania in 2016, comparing what we saw then with what I saw back in 1984. Please do be in touch.

    Adam Yamey, London (UK)

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