West Turkey: Marmara and Aegean

Istanbul, Izmir, Ephesus and Pamukkale

17th Oct – 9th Nov 2016

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After facing three days of 30km/hr headwinds from the Turkish border to the outskirts of Istanbul, the final day’s ride into Turkey’s cultural capital felt like a breeze, particularly in the company of Tobi, cycling from Germany to Iran, and Katharina and Christoph, also on a two-wheeled adventure spanning Europe and Asia. It was good timing that I met them because after three days of infuriating headwind I was thinking to throw my bicycle into the Bosphorus and walk back to the UK in a grump. Luckily, it only takes minutes of laughing with other cycle tourers to remind you why you do what you are doing.

Istanbul itself was as it had been described: enormous in both size and architecture, rich in culture and diversity, packed with delicious food and very difficult to leave behind. But leave it behind I had to, such is the transient life of the travelling cyclist. Luckily, leaving one experience behind you are always rapidly caught up in the next. I found myself immersed in the cycling community of the Aegean region, taking me from one inspiring cyclist in Soma before arriving to Izmir where I stayed with the founder of the national “Fancy Women on Bikes” movement. I was honoured to give a presentation to the Izmir cycling community and be hosted by cyclists and their friends across the region. I also visited two of the big names in Aegean tourism, the Ephesus archeological site and the hard chalk steps of Pamukkale.

On a statistical update, I’m at 15,589km of cycling in 15 months of travelling. I must have consumed over a million delicious and energy-giving calories and met an uncountable number of people that have challenged, inspired and (dare I admit it) changed me. Also, my legs are tired.

Istanbul

Tobi, Christoph, Katharina and me just a few kilometres from the crossroads between Europe and Asia
Tobi, Christoph, Katharina and me just a few kilometres from the crossroads between Europe and Asia
This is the Blue Mosque in Istanbul. You may look closely and start to see the hint of blue in the paintwork and nod wisely. Then you may read the guidebook that tells you the name comes from the interior, not the exterior, of the building as the inner walls are covered in a blue mosaic. Then you stop nodding wisely and laugh at your ability to see blue where there in none.
This is the Blue Mosque in Istanbul, an iconic image of the city. You may look closely and start to see the hint of blue in the paintwork and nod wisely. Then you may read the guidebook that tells you the name comes from the interior, not the exterior, of the building, as the inner walls are covered in a blue mosaic. Then you stop nodding wisely and laugh at your ability to see blue where there in none.
The delicious, energy giving, teeth sticking baclava
The delicious, energy-giving, teeth-sticking Turkish treats
The Turks and the Greeks may have some historical beef with each other, but there is at least one thing their countries have in common. Lots of cats.
The Turks and the Greeks may have some historical beef with each other, but there is at least one thing their countries have in common. Lots of cats.
Tobi and I having an excellent guided cycle up the Bosphorus with Mahmud, who I met through Warm Showers
Tobi and I having an excellent guided cycle up the Bosphorus with Mahmud, who we met through Warm Showers. Possibly my favourite type of cycling: 20km coastal cycling against a light headwind, meaning that a coffee break is well deserved, followed by the inevitable tailwind to take us home again.
Many of the buildings of Istanbul are adorned with ornate and colourful Iznik tiles, making public and private spaces bright and inspiring places to be
Many of the buildings of Istanbul are adorned with ornate and colourful Iznik tiles, making public spaces bright and interesting places to be
I was in Istanbul on Republic Day. The 29th October this year celebrated 93 years since Mustafa Kemal (Ataturk) declared Turkey a republic
I was in Istanbul on Republic Day. The 29th October this year Turkey celebrated 93 years since Mustafa Kemal (Ataturk) declared Turkey a republic. Apart from some additional flags added to the already overwhelming number of flags lining the Turkish streets, nothing of note happened. I was told by a few people that it is best to avoid large gatherings considering the recent terrorist attacks and unpredictable government actions. I hope people celebrated at home though, there should be no space for fear at all, let alone in the home.

Cycling the Aegean region of Turkey

I caught a boat from Istanbul to Bandirma and cycled through the fields of cotton wool, pomegranate, peppers and olives trees on the Turkish side of the Aegean sea. The region really came through with regards to cycling community hosts who housed me, fed me and generally showed me a good time in their village, town or city.

This picture is an attempt to represent a sound. The minarets project the call to prayer five times a day. It is a sound that I hear daily, in cities, towns and tiny villages. I particularly notice the punctual 1pm reminder, which usually reminds me that I should eat lunch.
This picture is an attempt to represent a sound. The minarets project the Muslim call to prayer five times a day. It is a sound that I hear daily, in cities, towns and villages. It is a peaceful melody although somewhat warbling compared to the musical sounds that I am accustomed to. I particularly notice the punctual 1pm reminder, which usually reminds me that I should eat lunch.
My first Warm Showers host in the region, a physics teacher who has just finished his PhD in Islamic fine art and calligraphy
Fatih, my first Warm Showers host in the region, a physics teacher who has just finished his PhD in Islamic fine art and calligraphy
Fatih gave me a sample of his Islamic calligraphy. He compared it to his calligraphy Master's work to show that he is not yet a Master. Considering I had even forgotten that you read it backwards, I didn't think I had any right to judge the quality!
Fatih gave me a sample of his Islamic calligraphy. He compared it to his calligraphy Master’s work to show that he is not yet a Master. Considering I had even forgotten that you were meant to read it backwards, I didn’t think I had any right to judge the quality. Looks beautiful to me!
Winter is coming.
Winter is coming.
Bircan, a female cyclist from Soma. It is a rare thing to see a female on a bike in Turkey and her friends made note of how unusual and brave Bircan is.
Bircan, a cyclist from Soma. It is a rare thing to see a female on a bike in Turkey and her friends made note of how unusual and brave Bircan is.
As well as being brave and unique, Bircan makes a damn fine breakfast.
As well as being brave and unique, Bircan makes a damn fine breakfast.
Tea (çay). So much tea is drunk here.
Tea (çay). So much tea is drunk here.
This is me after giving a presentation to the cycling community of Izmir
This is me after giving a presentation to the cycling community of Izmir
Izmir from the top of the city's lift (asansör)
Izmir from the top of the city’s lift (asansör)
Sema, the lady who started the "Fancy Women on Bikes" movement in Turkey four years ago, accompanied by her captivating cat Capul and the list of Turkish vocabulary for me to learn on the bike
Sema, the lady who started the “Fancy Women on Bikes” movement in Turkey, accompanied by her captivating cat Capul and in the foreground a list of Turkish vocabulary for me to learn on the bike
A photo in Sema's flat of one of the "Fancy Women on Bikes" cycles, where women get together and cycle together to improve the rights of women to cycle freely around Turkish cities without judgment
A photo in Sema’s flat of one of the “Fancy Women on Bikes” cycles in Izmir. Female cyclists get together with their bikes, dresses and flowers in many Turkish cities to improve the rights of women to cycle freely without judgment or harassment
The iconic image of Ephesus
The iconic image of Ephesus
Sleeping in a cyclist's meeting house in Selcuk
Sleeping in a cyclists’ meeting house in Selcuk
Another wonderful host family in Nazilli. Here I learnt the important Turkish word 'doydum' = 'I'm full'. Very useful when faced with generous Turkish mother's who hold your wrists between two fingers, tut, shake their heads and fill up your plate again.
Another wonderful host family in Nazilli. Here I learnt the important Turkish word “doydum”. It means “I’m full”. Very useful when faced with generous Turkish mothers who hold your wrists between two fingers, tut, shake their heads and fill up your plate again.
The rather moon-like hard chalk terraces at Pamukkale
The rather moon-like hard chalk terraces at Pamukkale
The theatre at Hierapolis, the ancient city lying above the hard chalk terraces
The theatre at Hierapolis, the ancient city lying above the hard chalk terraces
Walking back along the hard chalk terraces at sunset
Walking back along the hard chalk terraces at sunset (obligatory barefoot)

Aegean region, you have much more to offer I know, but this cyclist is aiming for Georgia before the serious winter sets in! Onwards to Turkey’s Mediterranean region.

Comments

2 thoughts on “West Turkey: Marmara and Aegean

  • Yusuf (Jouseph) 17th November 2016 at 6:00 pm Reply

    Nice too meet you 🙂 I hope we wont cut connection
    :))Im not Sayko ı just like listen Rock music

  • Gani Terkanlıoğlu 19th November 2016 at 9:49 am Reply

    I’m very glad to meet you.Pleased to visit Konya.For you to succeed after that.

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